\ Back-Packine to the Pacihe +65

signalise the occasion Mackenzie shaved off his beard and
changed his linen, “‘and my people followed the humanising
example.” Descending rapidly they presently came to a
precipice, from which they saw the river below, and a
village on its banks. "The mountain-side was covered with
pine, spruce, hemlock, birch and other trees. In about
two hours the bottom was reached. Here the timber was
found to be very large, including the largest and loftiest
cedar trees the explorer had ever seen.

The guide forged ahead to the houses of some friends to
prepare a reception for the party who, being overtaken by
darkness in the thick wood, proceeded by feeling, rather
than seeing, their way. At last several fires were seen in small
huts where the people were preparing their fish. Mackenzie
says: “I walked into one of them without the least ceremony,
threw down my burden and, after shaking hands with some
of the people, sat down upon it. They received me without
the least appearance of surprise, but soon made signs to me to
go to the large house erected on upright posts.”

Here a dignified chief! seated them on cedar-bark mats
in the place of honour, and set before them generous quantities
of roasted salmon. The women and children had already
retired, and the chief signified that the visitors were to sleep
in the house. A fire was prepared for them in one quarter
of the building on the ground hearth. This was surrounded
by a sleeping platform, backed like couches and raised a
few inches off the earth, which ran around three sides of
the fireplace. “hen a dessert in the form of a creamy emulsion
of salmon eggs was brought in to them, to be followed by
a second dish flavoured with gooseberries and sorrel. ‘‘ Having
been regaled with these delicacies, for such they were
considered by that hospitable spirit which provided them, we

1 Of the Salish nation. See Appendix C.