THE GREY STIKINE STIKINE waters ran low between ice-bound banks as they followed their south-westward path toward the Pacific Ocean. Low and swift they ran, seething round boulders and swirling over bars, with patches of slush-ice here and there upon their troubled surface. Through great canyons they came, run- ning dark and treacherous at the base of towering walls whose high rims stood frowning against a sullen sky. They threw themselves against barriers of rock, recoiled, slipped sideways over their slop- ing bed and crashed down in rapids to find a wider channel. Mountains closed in upon them, twisting their course and bringing to them from either side chattering and turbulent streams to swell their volume. The Coast Range stood starkly against that sullen November sky, its pointed peaks and rounded mountains whitened with thick, wet snow. The forests upon its flanks were gaunt and dark, and down in the valleys a heavy white blanket lay in thick folds beside the river-banks. Grey glaciers wound their way heavily from the peaks between 3