From there it climbs up through the timber to the first divide, then
descends into a wide, shallow valley with a chain of little lakes. From
there it rises to the second and higher divide, from the height of which,
to the north, a portion of Sigutlat Lake can be seen, and still farther
north the snowy crests of the Quanchus. To the west rises the splendid
peak of Thunder Mountain—“Tzeetsaytsul” to the Indians, and named
by them from the boom and rumble of its glaciers—and this peak
remains a conspicuous feature until one has travelled well towards the
northern limits of the Park. To the south is a marvellous view of the
serrated range of the Coast Mountains, with the high, white cone of
Monarch Mountain soaring to a height of nearly 12,000 feet. In that
direction the plateau extends for miles to the rim of the Bella Coola
Gorge, on the farther side of which looms Mackenzie’s “‘ stupendous
mountain.” Actually, this plateau was the highest point on his whole
route, where he arrived on his return journey by way of the Kakylskt
River “in such an extremity of weariness that it was with great pain
any of us could crawl about to gather wood for the necessary purpose
of a fire.”

From this spot the trail descends into Mackenzie Valley, a delight-
ful section of long, green meadows watered by the brawling Kohas-
ganko Creek, “a beautiful valley watered by a small river,” pleasant
indeed to the eyes of Mackenzie and his hard-driven, trail-wearied men.
From the valley the whole terrain rises gently to the Rainbow Moun-
tains, the slope broken in places by brief outcroppings which disclose
its remote volcanic origin, further evidence of which is afforded by the
ancient craters seen here and there in the Park.

Here one has one’s first real view of the brightly-tinted peaks, so
strikingly impressive in their vivid colouring that even the stolid Indians
were moved to name them Tsitsutl, “the painted mountains.” The

Indian
rock-painting
near

Bella Coola.