88 THE GREAT DENE RACE.

them as a saddle. Of the same skins they make little boots or shoes of
one piece’ =:
Mocassins composed therefore the whole costume of the Apaches by

the middle of the eighteenth century. About a hundred years thereafter, that

is, shortly before they were supposed to come under the control of the
United States, it had not become much more complicated, since we read that
when at home they went about naked, except for the breech-piece and mo-
cassins, while the women had dirty old blankets tied around their waists,
and the upper part of the body free from any covering”. The accompanying
illustration tells of a most satisfactory change due to Government influences
among the Jicarilla Apaches, the section of the tribe which has shown itself
the most amenable to civilized ideas.

To complete the costume of the prehistoric Navahoes, they “all wore
sandals of yucca fibre or cedar bark. They had headdresses made of weasel-
skins and rat-skins, with the tails hanging down behind. These headdresses
were often ornamented with colored artificial horns, made out of wood, or
with the horns of the female mountain sheep shaved thin. Their blankets were
made of cedar bark, of yucca fibre, or of skins sewed together’.

In addition to a breech-clout of deer skin or of several skins joined
together, the costume of the Hupas consisted mostly of a robe made of two
deer skins with the hair on, which were simply joined along one side and
whose necks met over the left shoulder. This was girdled at the waist, and
the tails of each skin nearly or quite reached the ground. They also wore
leggings composed of a single piece of buckskin with the seam in front,
which was concealed by means of a fringe. The top reached to the knees and
was turned down, dropping around the leg the component parts of another
fringe, while horizontal figures painted on the leggings added to the ele-
gance thereof.

As to the women, they were dressed in a skirt of tanned buckskin and
an apron. The latter was worn under the skirt and consisted of many long
strands attached to a belt. These strands were made of pine nut shells of
Pinus attenuata strung on twine, over which leaves of Xerophyllum tenax
braided. The skirt hanged from the waist to the knees, and its lower edge
was adorned with a thick fringe about sixteen inches long, while the top of
the garment was folded over and slit into a fringe perhaps six inches long.

In cold or wet weather a blanket made of the skin of a deer, wild cat
or other animal was worn over the shoulders, with the hair next to the body,
except when it was raining‘.

* “History of California”, quoted by M. A. Bell in “New Tracks in North America”,
vol. J, p. 233.

7 «The Marvellous Country”, p. 110.

* “Navaho Legends’, p. 141.

“ Cf. Goddard’s “Life and Culture of the Hupa”, passim.