RAPIDS “DAWSON marks the rapids just below here, doesn’t he2” The words, although shouted, were scarcely audible, but the roar of the fourteen-horse-power Johnson had trained us in the art of lip-reading and eloquent gesture. The tracing of Dawson’s map was pulled out and consulted; yes, the Cottonwood River coming in from the north-west, and then the rapids. We turned out of the Dease into the mouth of the tributary, and ran ashore on its lower bank. The deep silence which usually followed upon the dying of the motor was this time broken by a dull, low, incessant vibration in the cool morning air. Having tied the boat securely, we scrambled up through the brush and cut across toward the bank of the Dease, following it down until, through the tall evergreens, we saw the first stretch of rapid water. We struck through the trees to the river’s edge, lit cigarettes and sat down in silence, fascinated. On the opposite side, close ranks of gigantic spruce stood banded with sunlight; the green and gold of 71 F