RAINY DAY 97 we went at half speed, barely moving against the current, while the water was tested with a pole to ensure the necessary depth. And all the time the massive clouds rolled up into the sullen glow of a stormy sky. There was thunder and a sudden gust of warm wind, followed by a heavier stillness. Rain came down in sheets, soaking our clothes and the contents of the boat. We peered across at the banks, but there was nothing that looked like a camp site; for miles and miles, only the dark close line of evergreens blurred by the rain, and the hills behind them half lost in mist. And then, at the bend in the river, Sylvester's Mountain came suddenly into sight; it was snow-capped and glistening, and a rainbow struck against its shining flank. The river turned again. We were back in threatening red half-light between the surly dark banks of the narrowing stream. “Might as well camp.” PY es,” There was a narrow strip of land, overgrown . with rank grasses and tall weeds, between the edge of the bank and the trees. In the wetness and dark- ness there was an incessant humming of insects. With miserable haste we groped for the damp tent and eiderdowns under the dripping tarpaulin, while the evil-looking water ran past the boat; there was