CHAPTER I The Land and the People The Wonderland of the Pacific Coast. This is the Wonderland of the Pacific Coast. West of the Rockies, down through the Coast Range to salt water, then north by west out of the city of Van- couver through coastal tide-waters for six hundred straight miles, and if you have time to follow the coast-line of mainland and islands, five thousand crooked ones, you will view the noblest panorama of Nature, in which sea, islands, and mountains are intermingled, that can be found anywhere in the world. I grant you there may be prettier, daintier scenes, or those with more startling colours and bril- liant effects, but here you have a lavishness in extent, an endlessness in variety of ocean and mountain scenery, quiet inlets and angry storm-white reefs, glacier-capped summits and heavily-wooded valleys, that make altogether a combination unsurpassed and, I think, unequalled anywhere else on earth. It is more imposing than the fiords of Norway, nor has the far-famed Inland Sea of Japan anything more lovely. In these waters you are doing moun- tain climbing by steamboat, for the ocean has inun- dated a series of colossal ranges. You can sail for days through winding channels, broad and narrow, and among cloud-topped peaks that make your boat look like a child’s toy. Sometimes the trees, giant 1