© Sheelor, Skaguay Alaska, Atlin and the Yukon—The Incomparable Northland LASKA, ATLIN and the YUKON are to our gen- eration what California and the days of ’49 were to the then generation. But the trail of ’49 is but a memory, whilst in traveling to Dawson or Atlin one sees not alone many evidences of the memorable rush to the Klondike and here and there the old trail, but the very route followed is that taken by these mad seekers for gold. Mr. J. L. Burnside, in an article; in the ‘““New West Magazine,’ has drawn a very vivid picture of these early days contrasted with today, and we cannot refrain from quoting from his article: “With the discovery of gold in the Klondike in 1896 there resulted one of the greatest gold stampedes the world has ever known. Thousands were lured from the.farm, and from the toil and turmoil of the city, to this new Eldorado, little dreaming the hardships they must endure, the sacrifices they would be called upon to make, the blasted hopes. they would experience in this mad rush for—just a chance to ae with Nature for her golden treasures. “The scenic beauty of the ocean voyage to Skaguay, which for a thousand miles is an ever-changing panorama of Nature's wonders, was little appreciated nor long remembered by these men whose souls were filled with a lust for gold. They were in spirit far away in the land of promise which they had idealized in terms of gold, whose magic touch dispels all the ills of life. They had neither time nor inclination to note the charm of land or sea. “(Men from the sands of Sunland; Men from the woods of the West; Men from the farms and the cities, Into the Northland we pressed. Gray beards and striplings and women, Good men and bad men and bold, Leaving our home and our loved ones, Crying exultingly —Gold!”’ —Robert W. Service “Upon their arrival at Skaguay what little pleasure, if any, they had experienced faded from view, for it was here they came face to face with the hard, cold facts of pioneer life. The trip over the Pass meant days of torture and nights of anguish and a weary trudge over a precipitous path where only too often a toll of life was taken. “And so, ever confronted by new hardships, they journeyed for hundreds of miles, through the blizzards of the Northern winter and across a country barren of human habitation. “They suffered, starved and triumphed together. They mingled their sorrows and their joys, their hopes and their ambitions. And while fortune frowned on many, yet to others she gave her sweetest smile. And in the hope that they might some time be the favored ones, the less fortunate were inspired with that grim determination to win, that faith and confidence that are today attributes of the Alaskan and are the ‘prophecy of a Mighty Empire to be.’ ‘Since that time, however, the scene has changed; palatial vessels ply the waters of the inside passage; the iron trail of the White Pass & Yukon Route now follows in the very footsteps of these hardy pioneers; river steamers of the most modern type traverse the mighty Yukon and its tributaries for over three thousand miles; lake steamers, whose speed and comforts equal those of the ocean vessels, sail the waters of Lake Atlin, the beauty spot of the world.” There is probably no trip in the world so unusual —so inter- esting—so intensely worth while as that to Alaska, Atlin and the Yukon. Every mile is of vivid interest. Here in this Northland Nature has risen to a supreme effort and with a lavish hand strewn her gifts as nowhere else. Here are mountains miles high. Here are mighty glaciers— living giants eternally pushing into the sea—huge bergs breaking off and floating away on the water. Here are verdant hills, great rivers, countless islands, innumerable cascades and water- falls, rapids, canyons and gorges. Here are lakes of wondrous beauty. on whose mirror-like surfaces are reflected pictures of inexpressible grandeur. And wild flowers are everywhere. Here, 2 too, are Indians and their weird totem poles, interesting gold mines and fox farms. And here, too, the residents will greet you with a warm welcome and many an interesting story they can tell of the early days in Skaguay and Dawson when that greatest of all gold stampedes was on to the Klondike. Not only is there a most delightful and exhilarating summer climate, but added to it all, especially as you sail down the Yukon, is the fascinating charm of nightless days—yes, even the unique experience of seeing the sun at midnight. And all of this incomparable Northland scenery may be viewed from the deck, or from one’s comfortable seat in the observation room of the ocean, lake and river steamer, or from one’s arm- chair in the parlor observation car on the railroad. At Dawson, Atlin and Whitehorse, automobiles may be taken to various points of interest. The Voyage to Skaguay The sail to Skaguay is one of 1,000 miles from Seattle and about one hundred less from Vancouver and occupies about four days. But this sail is no ordinary ocean voyage. It’s unlike any you have probably ever taken before. It’s more like a sail on a river for, as J. S. McLain in his book, ‘‘Alaska and the Klondike,” says, ‘All the way practically the route lies among the islands which guard the Western Coast like pickets of the line, their lofty mountain peaks often obscured by the clouds, or glistening white as the sunlight falls upon their snowy summits. The channels are deep, the waters green and dark and wonder- fully phosphorescent at night, but quiet as an inland lake, and one may give himself over to the full enjoyment of the ever- changing and evercharming panorama of sea and mountain, of crags and peaks and softly wooded slopes, of vegetation at the water's edge, dense and tropical in it’s luxuriance, suddenly cut off for a space where a rigid stream of ice and snow, heading up - among the mountain tops, fills the passage between and comes down almost to the water’s edge—such contrast does Nature delight in that she plants her fairest flowers at the feet of her 3