120 Mackenzie’s Voyages

of the river displayed a succession of the most beautiful
scenery I had ever beheld. The ground rises at intervals
to a considerable height. At every interval or pause in the
rise, there is a very gently ascending space of lawn, which
is alternate with abrupt precipices to the summit of the whole,
or at least as far as the eye could distinguish. This magnificent
theatre of nature has all the decorations which the trees and
animals of the country can afford it; groves of poplar in
every shape vary the scene; and at their intervals are enlivened
with vast herds of elk and buffalo, the former choosing
the steeps and uplands, and the latter preferring the plains.
At this time the buffaloes were attended with their young
ones, who were frisking about them. The whole country
exhibited an exuberant verdure.”’

This description of the country between Peace River
Crossing and Dunvegan applies to-day, with the difference
that the animals seen now are domesticated cattle belonging
to the numerous settlements which spread over the prairie
level. Some of the best-improved farms in Alberta occupy this
stretch behind the terraces which Mackenzie here describes.

The river was rising and it was necessary to make use
of the setting-poles, as the paddles in such a swift current
were not effective enough. Passing the one hundred and
twentieth meridian, camp was made within the present
boundary of British Columbia, in the Peace River Block,
a mile or two east of Cut-Bank River, which was known
at the time as Quiscatina Sepy, or, to adopt the modern
spelling, the Kiskatinaw. Mackenzie’s camp must have been
at Rolla Landing, where the wagon-road into Pouce Coupé
and Grande Prairie leaves the river, or very close to it. As
a matter of fact there is a convenient beach here which makes
it a natural camping-ground.

A party of Beaver Indians appeared and Mackenzie was