COOKING AND EATING. 159

of the world”!. This is perhaps a slightly rash assertion, which can be
excused only on the plea that the writer was not familiar with the eating
capacities of the northern Dénés. True, he instances a feat of two Siberians
which, if truly reported, exceeds anything I have seen in the north. But the
ingurgitating competition he mentions was started for the sake of vainglory,
and to win the plaudits of the plebs, while I have known a Carrier who,
without this stimulant, is reported to have eaten at a single sitting two
one-year old beavers, four large bull trout and eleven white-fish, after which
he excused himself for his moderation by remarking that he would probably
have done better had he started with some appetite.

I remember also a full grown black bear the meat of which somehow
disappeared in two days among my three companions, my own share being
insignificant and hardly worth mentioning compared to theirs. An animal of
that size must weigh at the very least 350 pounds in the skin.

That these absorbing faculties are not confined to one tribe or to the
representatives of one sex is made evident by the fact that an Apache woman
is on record who, after receiving her Government rations for the week,
consumed all of the food in a single meal?.

All the Dénés, in fact, are great gormandizers. They are especially fond
of solid fat, and will drink grease to surfeiting. Though they generally appre-
ciate quantity at the expense of quality, they are not without realizing what
is best for gastronomic purposes. The tongues, ears and heart of any animal
are particularly prized; the marrow is also a rare tid-bit to them. But it may
be said that the choice morsel is in the cariboo the hump-like fat between
the shoulders. In other game they relish above all the saddle of the deer,
the upper lip of the moose, the liver of the marmot, the cutlets of the bear,
and the tail of the beaver. This last is especially appreciated in the west, as
is also the corresponding part in the porcupine. The serving of this to a
guest is deemed a genuine mark of consideration. The gelatinous substance
of a beaver tail will suit the palate of many; but, personally, my experience
of porcupine tails is not in their favour.

However little delicate the Dénés may be in their diet and easily
pleased as they are with the degree of cleanliness which accompanies the
preparation of their food, they will never stoop to eating on the bare ground.
The repast is served on mats, if any are procurable, or an old skin, rough
canvas, pieces of gunny sacks, or even a blanket. The entire menu is spread
thereon, if solid; if not, it is left in the kettle or put in a large dish which
si placed in the middle, and each guest helps himself therefrom, or is served
in a small bark vessel.

* “A Journey round the World”, vol. II, p. 309.
* Fourteenth Annual Rep. Bur. of Ethnology, p. 287.